Tulsa Animal Shelter

Paw Prints

YOUR NEW DOG

Believe it or not, he's even more excited than you are!

He may be anxious, perhaps fearful and probably stressed. Try to help him by containing your own excitement as much as possible. Move calmly and slowly and avoid leaning over his body. Until he's safe inside your house, his leash should be held by someone who has complete control.

Young children may seem like an entirely new species to him. They look and move and sound different than adults. Children should not put their faces close to the dog to get his attention. It's important for an adult to help children follow these instructions and to closely monitor interaction.

He has much better hearing than you do. Speak to him in relaxed but deep tones (this will help establish you as the dominant one). Right now, more than one person giving commands will be distracting and only cause confusion.

He may either welcome or fear the prospect of a ride in your car. And he may get car sick! Allow him to proceed slowly, again only one person giving commands. He needs to be safely on a leash until everyone is in, all doors closed and windows up, except for a small opening for fresh air for him.

AND NOW, H0ME AT LAST!

Keep him on a leash for the first few days while in your home to help show him where he is allowed and where he isn’t allowed and what he is and isn’t allowed to do (many people take a dog home, let him off the leash immediately, and then are amazed when he chews on the couch, chases the cat, etc). This also helps greatly when introducing him to other pets in the family. When using a choke collar, be sure to use a quick “pop and release” method, not a solid pull method. Dogs will usually lean and pull on a choke collar, which is unpleasant for you and can cause injury to the dog. Never allow your dog to pull – when he begins to move beyond the leash’s range, give a quick pop and say “no”. Make sure the choke collar hangs loose when not in use.

He may be wary of some ordinary things. Because they are entirely new to him, things like the stairs, the surface of the kitchen floor or a "big wheel" may make him anxious. Don't force him. Let him sniff and look at the new thing and reward him with praise, maybe special treats, for his efforts in trying to cope.

Expect a few accidents. Making the adjustment from kennel life to home life sometimes calls for a refresher course in housetraining. Set up a regular schedule right away and take your new dog outside frequently to eliminate. A dog with previous housetraining will usually return to his good habits in a few short weeks. Be patient and reward success with lots of praise.

He needs a day, at least, to get settled before he meets more people ... PLEASE! (This gives children time to tell their friends all they've learned already too!) If you give friends permission to pet him, remind them to approach slowly and quietly and never from directly in front. After he's had a chance to smell their hand (held a little below the level of his nose) it's best to pet him on his throat or chest or side, not over the head at first.

He's a social, pack animal and needs to be with you. But he does need his own place within your home with something comfortable to lie on. A crate (without wire where collar or paws could get caught) may look like a jail cell to you but to your dog it's a safe room of his own. It also makes housetraining and training easier when used for a limited number of hours. At the very least, consider some sort of confinement to a dog‑proofed part of your home.

CRATE TRAINING

Crates are generally viewed by the public as horrible little cages mean people stuff their dogs into when they can't be bothered to care for the dog properly. Nothing could be further from the truth. Yes, like any other tool, the crate can be abused, but if you handle crate training properly, your dog will love it even more than you will! Crates are especially useful at the beginning of the relationship, as I'll explain later.

The reason dogs love crates is that it appeals to their "den instinct". If a dog is left to himself, he will choose a "den spot" to retreat to when the world gets to be a bit too much. If introduced right, your dog will look at the crate as his “den spot”. He won't even mind being kept in there occasionally, since it is, after all, his safe place. The only times a crate is cruel is a) when the dog is not properly introduced, b) when the dog is left in the crate for longer than he/she can control his/her bladder, or c) when the dog has no life outside the crate. But in normal, life‑as‑it's‑meant‑to‑be situations, the dog will have no problem whatsoever. You will not have any problem whatsoever either, since your furniture and knick‑knacks will be safe from marauding canines in your absence.

To introduce your dog to a crate, set the crate out where the dog can access it. Line it with some soft towels or bedding, and put in a couple of toys. Invite your dog to explore the crate. Drop a couple of treats in the crate if the dog is reluctant to go in. Praise the dog when he goes in, and when he stays in. Eventually, when the dog seems comfortable in the crate, close the door for a minute. Don't rush to comfort the dog if he jumps up, just tell him in a neutral tone to settle down. Open the crate again when he sits back, and allow him to come out. After a little while of this, when he no longer panics when you close the door to the crate, shut the door and leave the room. Hang around in the kitchen (or whatever room the crate isn't in) for a few minutes, then return and let him out of the crate again. When he stays relaxed and comfortable in the crate even when you leave the room for a period of time, you can now consider him crate‑trained. Most dogs will adjust to this very well, and some may even already be crate‑trained, thus eliminating the need to go through the whole training procedure. A little whining and scratching is normal upon first introduction, and reluctance to approach that weird box is understandable. The only time you should worry is if the dog freaks the instant the door is closed, or if the dog shows visible fear of the crate. Then, the dog has most likely had some sort of prior negative experience with a crate. Try switching to a different kind of crate (if you're using a wire one, use plastic, or vice versa), but if all else fails, don't hesitate to look for a good trainer or behaviorist.

One note: dogs can adjust very nicely to the crate given the right circumstances, but they shouldn't live in the crate, they should live with you. If you have to work full‑time, either go home during lunch break to let the dog out and play with him, or get someone else to drop by during the day. Four to five hours at a time is plenty to ask from any dog, especially since the dog will spending the night in the crate, at least at first.

HELPFUL HINTS FOR YOU AND YOUR NEW DOG

He very much wants to please you. He won't know what does please you unless you praise him for his successes and good behavior. When he's sitting or standing quietly (even briefly), letting him know he's a "good dog" and petting him works much better than saying "no" or "down" at other times.

He knows little or no English. He understands best your body language and tone of voice. Old commands may be recognized only if they are limited to one or two words spoken quietly only once ... his name, then the command. Repetition confuses him; "sit" is not a six syllable word. (Pushing him into a sifting position is not recommended and it could cause injury.) Right now, more than one person giving commands distracts him, too. Enthusiastic praise will motivate him to respond to the command next time.

He doesn't know how to read your street address. We hear sad stories of dogs unleashed outside at their new homes before they are entirely familiar with the area. They wander off or chase a squirrel and then can't find their way back. Some are struck by cars. You may want to keep his leash on when you're with him inside, too, for the first day or two (not at night) for ready control.

He's probably from a long line of hard workers. He's been bred for hundreds of years for a certain job. Since you probably can't provide that specific daily task of herding sheep or tracking badgers or whatever his job is, he will need an equivalent activity to expend his energy in a non‑destructive, socially acceptable manner. Being alone out in the yard is not exercise and it's actually pretty lonely and boring. Long walks with you, games of fetch, frisbee, and agility events are some good possibilities. And even adult dogs need sturdy chew toys, especially for bad weather days.

Try to keep in mind the confusion he is feeling right now. Whatever his past history, coming home with you is a new experience.

Finally, be reasonable in your expectations. Life with you is a different experience for your new companion, so give him time to adjust You'll soon find out that you’ve made a friend for life. No one will ever greet you with as much enthusiasm or provide you with as much unconditional love and loyalty as your dog will. Be patient and you will be amply rewarded!

Call the Tulsa Animal Shelter if you have any questions or comments – 669-6299

Thank you for giving a pet a second chance!